Puffy amigurumi sheep

These sheep where made quite by accident last easter. I had just made a puff stitch pillow and had some yarn left from a cotton baby toy. There were a lot of movies to see and I just started crocheting purposelessly (if that is a word?).

At first I thought I was making a hippopotamus, but when I started on the puff stitches I realized it was going to be a sheep.

I apologize for the different qualities of the pictures. They where taken at different times, in different light conditions and (I admit) using different Instagram-filters.

This is the Ravelry-page for the pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/puffy-amigurumi-sheep

Mönstret finns på svenska här: http://arbetsbien.blogspot.se/2012/12/far-far-far-ja.html

Abbreviations:

I use american terminology throughout the pattern.

Dc – double crochet

Sl st  - slip stitch

Ch – chain

Inc – increase (2dc in the same stitch)

Sc – Single crochet

Dec - decrease (Make 1 sc through 2 stitches. There is a good tutorial at Crochet Spot if you do not know how.)

Magic ring - There is a great tutorial for this as well at Crochet Spot. 

Puff stitch: 

(The video is from Crochet Geek)

Important: In the beginningof each row, always replace the first sc with 1 ch. In the end of each row, always finish with a sl st in the first stitch.

If nothing else is written, make 1 dc in every stitch of the last row.

The body of the sheep (you start from the butt):

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 6 dc in the ring

Row 2: Inc in every dc (All in all this row is 12 dc)

Row 3: Inc in every other dc. (All in all this row is 18 dc)

Row 4: Inc in every fourth dc.(All in all this row is 22 dc)

Row 5: Make 1 puff stitch in every fourth stitch

Row 6: 1 dc in every stitch

Row 7: Like row 5, but place the puff stitches in the spaces between the puff stitches from row 5, instead of lining them up

Row 8: Like row 6

Row 9: Like row 7

Row 10: Like row 6

Row 11: Like row 7

Row 12: Like row 6

Row 13: Like row 7

Row 14: Like row 6

Row 15: Like row 7, but make 1 dec between every puff stitch

Row 16: Like row 6, but make 1 dec for every puff stitch on the previous row

Stop crocheting here, but don't cut off the yarn.

The legs:

(Change colors here if you want to)

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 6 dc in the ring

Row 2: Inc in every dc (All in all this row is 12 dc)

Row 3-5: 1 dc in every stitch

Varv 6: Dec 2 dc evenly spaced during the row. (All in all this row is 10 dc)

Row7-10: 1 dc in every stitch

Stop crocheting here and cut off the yarn, but don't weave it in.

Make four legs.

The tail:

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 6 dc in the ring

Row 2-3: Inc in every dc (All in all this row is 12 dc)

Stop crocheting here and cut off the yarn, but don't weave it in.

If you haven't done so already; weave in the pieces of yarn that you started with (at the feet, the end of the tail and the butt). Fill the legs with cotton (or your stuffing of choice). Leave the tail empty. Sew the legs and the tail to the body using the ends that you have cut off and left loose. Then weave them in.
Fill the body with cotton or your stuffing of choice.

The head:

Now keep working with the yarn from the body. 

Fill the head with cotton a little at the time.

Row 17: 1 dc in every stitch

Row 18: Inc in every fourth st on the top and sides of the head, but not on the bottom

Row 19: Like row 18

Row 20-23: 1 dc in every stitch

Row 24-27: Dec in every sixth st

Row 28:1 dc in every stitch

Row 29: Dec in every third st

Varv 30: This row consists only of 3 decreases. Skip 1 st between every dec. 

Cut off the yarn, thread it through your last stitch, and weave it in.

Ears:

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 10 dc in the ring. close the ring with a sl st in the first dc.

Sew the side of the ear onto the head. (I'm not sure how to explain it better than that, but I hope you get it from the pictures.)

The white of the eye:

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 10 dc in the ring. close the ring with a sl st in the first dc.

Leave one string of yarn loose, and weave the other one in.

The iris:

Start by making a magic ring.

Row 1: 3 dc in the ring. close the ring with a sl st in the first dc. It gets a bit bulky, but that's the point.

Leave one string of yarn loose, and weave the other one in..

Sew the iris to the white with the loose yarn from the iris.
Sew the white to the sheep with the loose yarn from the white of the eye.

Be careful about the placement of the eyes, they pretty much determine the look of the sheep!

Now your sheep is done, I hope you'll enjoy it!

When nine hundred years old you reach, look as good, you will not, hmmm?

I like carrying my son on my back in the Yoda-hat, in order to really feel lika Luke Skywalker.

Warm Yoda baby hat

The hat is crocheted using Aran weight/10 ply yarn held double  and a size 8 hook (US size L-11). So far I have only made this pattern one size, approximately for a 6 months old baby, but it is easily adaptable for older or younger children. The hat is also very stretchy, so it should fit your child for quite a long time.

This is the Ravelry-page for the pattern:  http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/warm-yoda-baby-hat

This is the pattern as a pdf-download (only available in English)

Abbreviations:

I use american terminology throughout the pattern.

Dc – double crochet

Sl st  - slip stitch

Ch – chain

Cl – cluster (2dc in the same stitch)

Hdc – Half double crochet

Sc – Single crochet

Magic ring - There is a great tutorial for this at Crochet Spot. 

In the beginningof each row, always replace the first dc with 3 ch or the first sc with 1 chain. In the end of each row, always finish with a sl st in the first stitch.

The hat starts from the top:

Begin by makinga magic ring.

Row 1: 10 dc inthe magic ring. Join with 1 sl st in the first dc.

Row 2. Increase by making a cl in every dc from the previous row.

Row 3. [1cl, 1dc]

Row 4: [1 cl, 5dc]

Row 5: [dc]

Repeat row 5 until the hat is large enough.

The ears:

Row 1: 10 ch,turn.

Row 2: 1 dc inthe 3d ch, 1 dc, 2 hdc, 3 sc, 2 ch. Turn and continue on the bottom side of the chains from row 1 (this is the tip of the ear). Make 3 sc, 2 hdc, 3 dc.

Row 3: 1 sc in each stitch until you get to the two ch at the  tip of the ear. Make 1 sc in the first ch, 3ch, sc in the same stitch. Skip the second ch from the last row and then keep making sc in each stitch along the bottom.

Finish it off, but leave a long piece of yarn to use for when you attach the ear to the hat.

The second ear is made exactly the same as the first one, except that in row 3 you skip the first ch instead of the second. This makes the ear tilt the other way.

Attach the ears using the long pieces of yarn and fasten all the threads.

I have made a ribbon of 30 ch to tie the hat onto the baby’s head, but that is of course optional (if your baby does not love tearing hats off and waving them around, like mine does).

På svenska:

Förkortningar:
St - stolpe
Sm - smygmaska
Lm - luftmaska
Stgr - stolpgrupp: 2 stolpar i en stolpe från förra varvet
Hst - halvstolpe
Fm - fast maska

Mössan börjar uppifrån mitten:
Börja med en magisk ring (kolla upp det på youtube om du inte vet hur! Det är en bra sak att kunna).

Varv 1: 10 st i ringen. Sätt ihop med en sm i förstast.

Varv 2: Börja med 3 lm, som ersätter första st. Gör stgr varvet ut. Avsluta med en sm i tredje lm från början av varvet.

Varv 3: Börja med 3 lm, som ersätter första st. *Gör en stgr, en st*. Upprepa mellan stjärnorna varvet ut.

Varv 4+: Börja med 3 lm, som ersätter första st. *Gör en stgr, 5 st* Upprepa mellan stjärnorna varvet ut.

Fortsätt med bara fm tills mössan är lagom lång. Jag gjorde 6 varv.

Öra:
Varv 1: 10 lm, vänd

Varv 2: 1 st i 3e lm, 1 st, 2 hst, 3 fm. 2 lm, ochvänd så du nu fortsätter på undersidan av de lm du gjorde i varv 1. (De här 2lm blir alltså spetsen på örat). 3 fm, 2 hst, 3 st.

Varv 3: 1 lm som ersätter första fm. Därefter 1 fm i varje tills du kommer till örspetsens två lm. I första lm gör du fm, 3 lm, fm. Hoppa över den andra lm. Därefter fm i varje hela varvet runt.
Lämna en lång tråd när du fäster, som du kan sy fast örat med.

Andra örat gör du precis likadant, utom att du hoppar över första lm och gör örspetsen i andra lm istället på varv 3.

Sy sedan fast ett öra på varje sida med hjälp av de långa trådstumparna, och fäst alla lösa trådar ordentligt.

Jag har gjort ett band av luftmaskor för att knyta fast mössan under hakan, men det kan man förstås låta bli om ens barn inte älskar att dra av sig mössor och vifta med dem, som mitt gör.